RM Récoltant-Manipulant (Harvesting-Handling)
4 hectares / 35 000 bottles per year
THE HOUSE
The exploitation of the vines in Champagne by a member of the Fannière family dates back to 1860. At that time, the winegrowers sold each year at the time of the harvest all of their grapes to the trading houses. The latter, who sold all the champagne throughout the world, had very few vines (this is still the case), and were obliged to source grapes from the small owners to make their champagne. . Grapes from Grands Crus such as Avize were of course the most sought after, and were often used in the elaboration of Prestige Cuvées. It was not until 1950 that Jean Fannière decided to produce his own champagne. Success quickly follows, thanks to the high quality of the Chardonnay d'Avize grape. From a few thousand bottles during the first years, Jean Fannière sold 10,000 bottles of champagne per year in 1965 when his daughter Josette and his son-in-law Guy Varnier took over the business. The expansion of the vineyard in the Grand Cru villages of Oger and Cramant will allow the development of new Cuvées. It was in 1989 that their son Denis Varnier in turn took over the family business at the end of his oenology studies. The emphasis is on the continuity of traditional methods of working the vine and wine, while Champagne tends to industrialize its production. The use of the old traditional horizontal press is the perfect example of this state of mind ... maybe one day Pierre-Louis, Denis's son, will continue this tradition in his turn.
THE WINE ESTATE
The Varnier estate is small, but of high quality, because all of the 4 hectares are classified as Grand Cru at Avize, Oiry and Cramant. No effort is spared to conserve the old vines, aged between 30 and 50 years.
"5 km south of Epernay begins the legendary Côte des Blancs. Five villages classified Grand Cru then follow one another: Chouilly, Cramant, Avize, Oger and Mesnil sur Oger. The subsoil is entirely made of chalk with belemnites (accumulation of cuttlefish fossils, the Rolls of Champagne chalk) of an impressive depth on the side of the hill (sometimes 10 meters). Only the white Chardonnay grape is produced in this region, hence the term "Blanc de Blancs" (Champagne made with white grapes) mentioned on the labels of Champagne bottles produced in these prestigious villages. The Avize terroir is very limited: barely 262 hectares of Chardonnay grapes. The historic heart of the Côte des Blancs remains Avize and Cramant, neighbors, the original Grands Crus. Chardonnay began to invest in these two villages in the early days of champagne, especially for its ability to take the foam well. The whole Coast followed, when it understood that this terroir was made for this grape variety, so fine and elegant were the wines made from it. The Varnier-Fannière vineyard was founded in Avize in 1860 by Jean Fannière's grandfather. It is an honor for us to exploit the vines on this unique terroir..." (Denis Varnier)
VINIFICATION
The pressing is done by hand on a traditional vertical press. This type of press is still considered the most qualitative today. It is also for us the symbol of the Tradition of our House.
The press in the raised position. Its capacity is 2,000 kg of grapes. It will extract 1,250 liters of grape juice, called "must". It is in Champagne that the grapes are crushed the least to extract the juice (1.6 kg of grapes to obtain 1 liter of juice).
The loading takes place by overturning approximately 40 crates of grapes of 50 kg. This is called "weighing" because the weight of the grapes in the press must be measured to the nearest kg before starting to press.
Then we lower both sides of the press and the press slowly begins its work. The juice that flows from this first press is called "the Cuvée". It is the sweetest juice. The juice flows by gravity into vats located under the press: "les belons".
When the juice stops flowing, the press is reassembled. The pile of grapes is then compressed and has lost half of its volume.
A small mound is then reformed in the center of the press using a fork in order to crush the grapes again. This is the "roll up". We will thus make 3 roll-ups to extract all the juice from the grapes, then we will empty the press to crush new grapes freshly picked.
The grape juice, or "must", is placed immediately after pressing in small stainless steel (or epoxy resin) vats using a pump. It is then that the alcoholic fermentation will begin, which is the transformation of the grape juice into wine: the yeasts present in the must will indeed transform the sugar in the must into alcohol, at the rate of 18 grams of sugar per liter of juice for obtain 1 ° of alcohol.
This fermentation will last about a week. The white wine obtained will therefore have a concentration of 11% (or degree) of alcohol. It will stay in the vats for about 6 months, before bottling in the spring and the famous champagne fermentation that will follow. But this is another story...
The wines are bottled early. "I prefer the wine to develop in the bottle rather than in the vat, I try to get as much time in the bottle as possible" says Varnier.
TASTING
"The Varnier-Fannière champagnes are concentrated and ripe. Their richness is combined with an expressive minerality but always in a beautiful balance regulated with great precision. They are virile and energetic without being heavy." - Peter Liem in Champagneguide.net
Denis Varnier has twice received the highest rating from the Guide Hachette des vins: 3 stars + favorite.
In 2004 for his Brut Grand Cru.
In 2009 for its ROSE Brut Grand Cru - "This Rosé Grand Cru champagne has a sustained color and delicate cherry notes that persist until the finish. All finesse, fresh and long, this rosé will ennoble sunny aperitifs."
Brut Grand Cru
A blend of different years of harvest. The average age of its aging in the bottle is around 3 years. The color is fresh, pale yellow with jade reflections. The nose develops aromas of lemon mixed with notes of ripe fruit, apricot and green apple. On the palate, the attack is lively, the balance and finesse of the Chardonnay are omnipresent with a slightly mineral finish.
Rosé Brut Grand Cru
This Rosé Grand Cru champagne is an original cuvée, which combines the finesse of Chardonnay (90%) with the power and fruitiness of Pinot Noir red wine (10%) from the village of A d’, the historic Grand Cru of Champagne. Her dress is adorned with a pale pink, an alliance of amber and ruby. The nose is dominated by fresh red fruits, blackberry and blackcurrant. On the palate, the attack is lively and shows perfect balance, recalling the strong personality of Pinot Noir. A long, fine and powerful finish at the same time. This Rosé charms and seduces. It has the rare privilege of being one of the most popular champagnes of women! An ideal champagne to accompany both meats and red fruit desserts.
Cuvée Jean Fannière Orgigine Extra Brut
This Cuvée is dedicated to Jean Fannière who decided in the 1950s to no longer sell his grapes and to produce his own champagne. The Grand Cru vines used at the time are still used to produce this Cuvée, and are all over 50 years old. The sugar dosage is "extra brut" (only 3 g / liter of sugar) and allows you to express all the minerality and finesse of these terroirs of Avize, Oger and Cramant, after 4 years of aging in the bottle.
Cuvée Saint Denis Brut
The term Cuvée means the first juice that flows from the press (and therefore the best). The grapes come from a single 65-year-old plot of Avize: “le Clos du Grand-Père”. Cuvée adorned with a light gold color with discreet green reflections, the bubbles are fine and light. The nose is a bouquet of aromas which has evolved over the 5 years of aging in our cellars. Discretion of white flowers, hint of lychees and dried fruits, typical of great Chardonnays. The maturity on the palate is there, in the form of toasted hazelnuts and pastries, with a well-marked mineral finish. An old Cuvée for connoisseurs ... as an aperitif or on a foie gras.
Grand Vintage 2004 Brut
Exercise of style of our know-how, each vintage sublimates and exalts the generosity of an exceptional harvest. Each bottle of our Grand Vintage has been made with our oldest plots, whose grapes have maximum aromatic potential. The pale gold color with silvery reflections is highlighted by a beautiful carpet of moss. This is a mature nose. The praline and the dry herbs give way to floral notes. After an attack of remarkable freshness, the palate offers a beautiful amplitude which increases as the tasting progresses. The finish is long and marked by notes of hazelnuts. This Grand Vintage 2004 is a fine example of Chardonnay from which we have known how to expect maturity.